Welcome to Bunny Education & Rescue,
presented by Our Pack, Inc. Rescue!

Our Rabbit Rescue History

Our Pack, Inc. received their 501c3 non-profit status in 2007 and has successfully worked with pit bull type dogs including high profile abuse cases such as the Michael Vick case.

When we started our rescue and advocacy programs for dogs, there were so many misunderstandings, not only surrounding pit bull types, but surrounding dogs in general. Much has changed for pit bull dogs since then, fortunately.

Although manifested differently, we found similar threads of misunderstandings with bunnies. Their diets, housing (most pet stores will advise you to buy cages that are far too small) and what their behaviors mean.  Also, many people don’t realize what sensitive and feeling beings bunnies are.
Education as well as spay/neuter services can lower the numbers of surrenders to shelters and over population of dogs and cats. We believe that providing similar public assistance to bunny owners will slow the amount of bunnies being surrendered to shelters and from being abandoned on the streets.

We provide resources, as well as give advice on rabbit care to current and new owners. We also give assistance by providing help with spay/neuter.

Bunnies are loving, feeling animals that need love, care, and happy homes to live in.  We’re here to help new or current bunny people in any way that we can to facilitate the life-long bond between bunny and human.

If you’d like to help support our programs, please go to our donate button. Thank you!

Marthina McClay, CPDT-KA                                                               
Our Pack, Inc. Founder                                                                         Licensed House Rabbit Society Educator

Rabbit Care


  • Rabbits need a 10 year commitment
  • Grass hay available at all times, such as timothy hay or orchard grass
  • Small amount of pellets each day. The amount of pellets needed for each rabbit can vary. Ask your vet for recommendations
  • A small amount of greens each day.  Ask your vet about greens or see https://rabbit.org/suggested-vegetables-and-fruits-for-a-rabbit-diet
  • Rabbits need lots of space to live in. Large dog exercise pens work well with a fleece blanket for flooring
  • Provide a litter pan with litter (no wood shavings, pine pellets are OK) on the bottom of pan with their hay on top
  • We suggest crocks for water bowls. Water bottles are not as natural for them to drink from
  • A cardboard hide box is great for them to chew on and hang out in along with some safe toys
  • Rabbits need gentle handling - very small children should be a factor in deciding to take in a rabbit - good management and supervision are key
  • Rabbits need time outside of their enclosure for interaction, play, running and jumping
  • All rabbits should be spayed/neutered to prevent cancers and to prevent more rabbits. Also, rabbits should be vaccinated for RHDV2 yearly
  • Rabbits do best when they live indoors where health can be monitored easily and there's less danger of predators and disease
  • And lots of love

Email [email protected] for more information and assistance


What my Rabbit Needs When Adopting

  • Rabbits do great kept indoors in a 36" tall size large, 4 x 4 eight panel dog exercise pen with extra clips. We use Everbilt clips from Home Depot
  • Rugs, fleece blankets, or sheets are great for the flooring
  • A water crock that is heavy so that your rabbit can't tip it over. We use a size that's about 6" in diameter to hold enough water. Rabbits drink a lot of water
  • Rabbit food pellets. We use Garden Select Adult Rabbit Food by Oxbow. You can also use Oxbow Essentials Adult Rabbit Food
  • Timothy hay or orchard grass to have on hand at all times. Your rabbit will need this in his litter pan, on top of litter at all times
  • An extra large cat litter pan.
  • Litter for the litter pan. We use Tractor Supply Pine Pelleted Bedding for Small Animals and Horses. Or you can use pine pellet cat litter or a paper litter like Yesterday's News. We don't use wood shavings
  • A pet carrier to bring your rabbit home in and for vet visits when needed.  We recommend a hard carrier for more protection in the car
  • Rabbit safe toys. We love willow type toys, like balls and baskets, made for rabbits
  • A hide box. We just make these out of cardboard boxes by cutting out two doors on the box. You can also purchase untreated wood hides made for rabbits


Why Domestic Rabbits Shouldn't be Abandoned in the Wild or in Neighborhoods

Domestic or Wild

Many people think that domestic rabbits and wild rabbits are the same.  They are not. While they may show some of the same traits, and can be susceptible to some of the same diseases, they are very different in their ability to survive out in the wild. Additionally, they are different enough in that domestics and wilds can't even produce offspring together.

Wild rabbits survive better in the wild as they are acclimated to colder and hotter temperatures. They are deft at escaping and hiding from predators. Wild rabbits also know what to consume in the wild for survival.

A domestic rabbit can overheat in temperatures at or above 80 degrees. They are also used to being fed a certain type of food in a home. Domestic rabbits will often not think to hide from flying predators. They may sit out in the open more than wild rabbits do where flying predators such as hawks can easily see them. Another thing that domestics have going against them in the wild is that many of them have flashy coats that don't usually blend into the environment and are more visible to predators.

A domestic rabbit depends on humans for temperature control, food sources, companionship, and protection from predators.  Also, note that both domestics and wilds are susceptible to Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease , a very deadly virus spreading across the U.S. The bottom line is that domestic rabbits don't do very well when left to fend for themselves.

Causes for Surrenders to Shelters and Even Abandonment

Impulsive buying or the wrong expectations and misconceptions about rabbits and their care can cause more surrenders to shelters and even abandonment in neighborhoods and fields. However, there's a lot of great info available to help when issues arise regarding behavior or general care.  Contacting a local rabbit rescue, shelter, or a House Rabbit Society educator for advice on housing, problems with litter box training, or behavior issues can really make a difference for rabbit owners. The most successful adoptions occur when adopters are informed about their rabbit's care, personality traits, and realistic expectations have been set, prior to adoption - and they are ready to take on a new animal family member.

Sometimes when people can no longer care for a rabbit, they mistakenly think that they can let the rabbit "go free" or that "he'll know how to make it on his own".  As above, a domestic rabbit will not likely survive long term.

Even after making appropriate changes, and a rabbit still has to be re-homed, taking him to a local rescue or shelter greatly increases his chances for survival, rather than being left outside to fend for himself. When rescues and shelters are full (they often are) and need time, holding onto a rabbit until there is space can be life-saving.


A Note on Rabbit Digestion

Rabbits need fiber moving through their gut continuously to be happy, healthy and energetic. They don't eat meals, they eat throughout the day. This is why it's best to be sure your rabbit has hay available at all times. When rabbits stop eating even for a 12 hour period, there is a possibility that something could be going on.  Please read Gastrointestinal Stasis: The Silent Killer for more information about the signs of GI Stasis and what you can do if your rabbit stops eating.


Important Information: Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus 2

RHDV2 is a lethal, highly contagious rabbit virus currently spreading across the US. Symptoms include fever, lethargy, internal bleeding and/or organ failure. Wild and domestic rabbits can both get RHDV2. However, the virus cannot be transmitted to humans or other animals. Note that even rabbits that live indoors only can still get this virus. Some of the most recent cases were indoor rabbits.

Fortunately, there is a very effective vaccine available that will protect your rabbit from RHDV2. Ask your veterinarian about the vaccine. All rabbits available for adoption at Our Pack, Inc. and Bunny Education & Rescue are all fully vaccinated. 

Symptoms may include:

-Loss of appetite
-Lethargy
-High fever
-Seizures
-Jaundice
-Bleeding from nose, mouth, or rectum
-Difficulty breathing
-Sudden death

The virus is spreading across the U.S. and has made its way into California. The  fatality rate is between 40% - 100%   Incubation period is about 3- 9 days. It's a very hardy virus remaining viable in the environment for 105 days at 68F on fabric. It remains stable for 3.5 months at room temperature and for 225 days at 39F. It's not killed by freezing. It survives heat of 122 for one hour. There is no cure for RHDV. Any sudden death should be reported to your veterinarian as a possible case of RHDV.  If you suspect your rabbit may have RHDV or has the above symptoms, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

The virus can be spread by your rabbit contacting surfaces or items contaminated by the virus such as clothing, shoes, and care or truck tires. Your rabbit may also get the virus by being in contact with another rabbit or their urine or feces. Insects such as flies, fleas, mosquitoes or birds, rodents, predators and other pets can spread the virus. Dogs and cats that go outside can bring it in. If you've been in contact with other rabbits that have it you can spread it to your rabbit.

Please contact your veterinarian about vaccines. Vaccines are the best defense against RHDV2.  The U.S. now has a vaccine made by Medgene to protect your rabbit from the virus.  In the meantime there are biosecurity measures you can take:

-Keep your rabbit indoors with no outdoor playtime and no playtime with other rabbits from outside your home.
-Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling rabbits.
-Change your clothes and wash them twice after contact with other rabbits.
-Leave shoes outside your home.
-Keep mosquitoes and flies out of your home with window and door screens.
-Know your hay sources and whether or not they are located in outbreak areas.
-Quarantine new rabbit for 14 days.
-For multi-pet house households, keep dogs on-leash outside so they do not directly interact with wild rabbits, alive or dead. Wash their paws before going inside. Block dog access to areas where your rabbit lives or exercises. Keep cats indoors to prevent the virus from getting inside.
-Use monthly flea treatment for rabbits, cats, and dogs.
-If you live in an outbreak area, ask your veterinarian about vaccination.
-Disinfect objects that may be contaminated. Visit http://rabbits.org/rhdv/ for more info on the virus and how to protect your rabbit/s and for a list of disinfectants for RHDV.
This information is from House Rabbit Society at http://rabbit.org.  For more comprehensive information on the virus go to http://rabbit.org/rhdv